Au Cheval in New York

A Chicago burger legend behind an unmarked door in Tribeca

Au Cheval is the New York branch of the diner that turned a griddled cheeseburger into a national argument. It sits in one of Tribeca’s narrow service alleys — the sort of fire-escaped, cinematic passage that has stood in for «New York» in more films and television episodes than almost any block in the city — behind a door with next to no signage. Inside is a converted warehouse room, low amber light and a griddle working all evening. The practical part: seats are held largely for walk-ins, reservations are now accepted as well, and patience at peak hours is part of the deal.

The Concept · The Story

Brendan Sodikoff opened the first Au Cheval in Chicago under his Hogsalt group; the New York room followed on 5 March 2019. The idea is deliberately contradictory. The format and the vocabulary are diner — bare wooden tables, a ketchup bottle within reach, stools facing the kitchen. The execution is restaurant-grade: cloth napkins, prime steaks, roasted bone marrow, a global wine list, draught beer and classic cocktails built properly. Two further Sodikoff projects live under the same roof: a Sawada Coffee counter by the entrance, pouring espresso drinks, matcha and doughnuts, and The Bar, a basement room with a soundtrack of its own that pours specialty beers and cocktails and serves the full Au Cheval menu.

What to Order

The cheeseburger, of which the menu carries exactly one: the double cheeseburger, two prime beef patties with sharp American cheddar, pickles, onion and dijonnaise. The two upgrades that most tables take are thick-cut bacon and a fried egg. Past the burger, the Crispy Fries with Mornay Sauce arrive with garlic aioli and a fried farm egg on top; the Fried House-Made Bologna Sandwich is the order regulars use to recognise each other. General Jane’s Honey-Fried Chicken covers sweet heat, the Chopped Wedge Salad comes with egg, bacon, gorgonzola and ranch dressing, brunch adds chilaquiles, and the mille-feuille is the correct ending. Bone marrow, seafood and prime steaks are there for anyone who did not come for a burger at all.

The Space

The room reads as a diner that quietly upgraded itself: a big converted warehouse, moody lighting, bare wood, cloth napkins and ketchup side by side, roughly seventy-five seats. The banquettes are what people angle for — old-school clubhouse corners where a long dinner goes unnoticed. Four- and two-tops take groups and dates. The cushioned backless stools along the kitchen counter are the best solo seat in the neighbourhood, because dinner comes with a view of the griddle. Down the stairs, the basement bar is darker and looser, and it doubles as the most comfortable waiting room in Tribeca.

Good to Know

Do I need a reservation? Reservations are accepted and worth taking, but a large share of the room is still kept for walk-ins, and the peak-hour wait can run long.

What should a first-timer order? The double cheeseburger with bacon and a fried egg — two prime beef patties, which is more burger than it sounds.

Is it a good place to eat alone? Yes. The counter stools face the kitchen and turn over faster than the tables.

What is there for someone who doesn’t want a burger? Roasted bone marrow, prime steaks, seafood, the honey-fried chicken and the chopped wedge salad.

What is downstairs? The Bar — a basement room with a soundtrack of its own, specialty beers and cocktails, open to walk-ins and serving the full Au Cheval menu. The easiest way to turn a wait into the start of the evening.

Opening hours